Myanmar
This is my itinerary for a 15 days solo trip in Myanmar (Yangon - Mandalay - Hsipaw - Bagan - Kalaw - Inle lake). Budget : Around 45 USD per day
Yangon
2 days : Bo Gyoke market, city walk, Shwedagon, night bus to Mandalay
Make sure you start the day early before the weather gets too hot. I started my morning with a coffee and the typical Burmese breakfast, the famous Mohinga (rice noodles in a fish broth, 500 kyats). People watching from any terrace is highly recommended as you’ll probably spot a procession of monks or nuns during the morning alms. If you feel like training your negotiation skills, head off to the Bo Gyoke market. Get lost in the alleys of this shopping temple, you’ll find a broad selection of lacquerware, gems, longyi, antiques (fake or real), and all sorts of souvenirs.
On the second day, I walked from Sule Pagoda to Chinatown following Maha Bandula Road, the crowded street markets offer an incredible sight of colors. Wander around the colonial buildings nearby Sule pagoda : Yangon City Hall, The Strand Hotel, Custom House, General Post Office, Railways Headquarters, High Court Building, Rowe & Co Building, Maha Bandula Garden. Around 4 PM, in order to avoid the rush hour, head to Shwedagon, the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar. Frankly speaking, I’m not a big fan of the multicolored LED lights, however, you still feel a genuine spirituality beneath the bling. At dawn, you might find yourself joining the pilgrims in the contemplation of the big golden stupa surrounded by thousands of candles.
Beans baby
Bo Gyoke market
Wanna-be-pancakes eggs
Shan noodle (Chickpea flour noodles prepared in a chilly sauce with fresh chives, sesame, or peanuts)
Inspiration for city planners, look at those funky colors!
Shwedagon
Cost
Taxi: 7,000 kyats (airport to the hostel) + 8,000 kyats (hostel to Aung Min Galar bus station)
Food: 2,500 kyats + 5,500 kyats (Breakfast, lunch, coffee, dinner)
Hostel: 15,000 kyats
Shwedagon Entrance fee: 8,000 kyats
Stay
Myanmar Backpacker - 256 Pansodan Street, Tower A, Level 9 - Kyauktada Township, Yangon Downtown (+95 9421757685)
VIP night bus (JJ express Yangon - Mandalay): 18,500 kyats
Mandalay
3 days : Mahamuni Pagoda, U being bridge, Mahagandayon monastery school, Inwa, Sagaing hill
After the 10 hours night bus from Yangon to Mandalay, I arrived at around 6 AM at the hotel and booked a 2 days motorbike tour with the taxi driver.
After catching up on some sleep, we left in the afternoon for Mahamuni pagoda. Another pagoda! I told my guide I was bored of pagodas but he assured me that this temple was worthy and he was right! The Mahamuni temple is one of the sacred pilgrimage site.
Next destination, U Bein Bridge, the longest teakwood bridge in the world (1.2 km long). Walk slowly to the other side of the bridge, then head back facing the sun, it’s absolutely stunning and free.
Just before the sunset, you’ll notice some fishermen in the middle of the lake trying to get the last catch. The local fishing technique requires them to spend hours in the water. Despite the hard work, they will give you the most genuine smile while you cross their path on the bridge.
The next day around 9AM we arrive at the Mahagandayon monastery famous for serving lunch to around 2,000 monks. The area is expanding with new schools and dormitories. You are allowed to take pictures but you have to be respectful of the procession path and not stand in the way of the monks.
Next stop is Inwa, the ancient capital. There is popular route access via boats, or you could ask your motorbike driver to take the road instead. Stop at Sagaing hill for a panoramic view of Mandalay's outskirt.
The entrance hall was surprisingly calm when I got there, few craftsmen were selling Buddhist statues and figurines while working in their atelier
Sagaing hill
Cost
Camera fees Mahamuni pagoda: 1,000 kyats
Taxi from the bus station to hotel: 8,000 kyats
Motorbike driver 2 days: 24,000 kyats
Inwa entrance fees: 10,000 kyats
Mandalay - Hsipaw
2 days : train to Hsipaw, Gokteik viaduct
The Gokteik viaduct or the “monster of silver geometry in all the ragged rock and jungle” that Paul Theroux mentioned in his travelogue The Great Railway Bazaar is a British colonial legacy. If you don’t have fear of heights it’s quite a stunning journey to go across this 689 meters length viaduct completed in 1900.
4 tips to make your 12 hours train journey comfy:
Don’t fall asleep too close to the open windows or you’ll get a leaf slap!
Carry warm clothes, it’s freezing on board before the sunset.
Bring some hot tea and snacks.
A more comfortable option would be to take a shared taxi from Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin and then catch the train but it’s definitely less fun.
Enjoy the ride!
Hsipaw is a laid-back town located in the hills of the Shan state. You could visit the Shan Palace, a villa where the last Shan prince lived. His Australian wife, Inge Eberhard, wrote her exotic and tragic memoirs in Twilight Over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess.
Shan palace or “Hsipaw Haw”
Stay
Lily the home - No.108, Aung Tha Phay Road, Hsipaw +95 82 80 408. You could ask pick-up service at the train station for free.
Cost
Train ticket (ordinary class): 1,700 kyats
Single room with balcony: 15,000 kyats
Food : 5,000 kyats
Hsipaw - Bagan
3 days
The beauty of Bagan lies in the impressive panorama of 2,000 temples scattered across a vast dusty plain. “From the 9th to 13th centuries, the city was the capital of the Pagan Kingdom, the first kingdom that unified the regions that would later constitute Myanmar.”
On a scooter you could easily visit these 8 pagodas: Ananda, Dhammayangyi, Gawdawpalin, Htilominlo, Shwesandaw, Shwezigon, Sulamani, Thatbyinnyu.
To have a great panoramic view without the crowd, you could tentatively climb up some of the less known temples:
Oak Kyaung Gyi You could climb on the top of this ruined temple to watch the sunset
Khaymingha temples. Located in the middle of a field, the surrounding of this less-known pagoda is absolutely charming.
Thisawadi for sunrise. Make sure you have a precise map and a torch because there is no indication of this temple. It’s also a bit hidden from the road, but your pain will be rewarded.
Stay
Mya Thida (New Bagan) - No. F-55, Corner of Nwe Ni Street & School Street Kyan Sitt Thar Township, New Bagan, ()09-450066777
The archaeological zone is located between Nyaung U (in the North) and New Bagan (in the South).
Cost
Guesthouse 2 nights: 2 x 15,000 kyats
Shared Taxi from the bus station to New Bagan: 3,500 kyats
Entrance fee to Bagan archaeology site: 15 USD
E-bike rental (1 day and half): 8,000 kyats
Bagan - Kalaw - Inle
Kalaw to Inle 3 days 2 nights trek
The bus left Bagan around 7 AM and arrive around noon at Kalaw. Make sure you ask the bus driver to call your name because there is no indication and if you miss the stop, well you’ll arrive straight to Inle, so don’t fall asleep!
Kalaw is a slow-paced little town where most travelers gather for the popular trek to Inle lake. There are several travel agencies operating the trek, I went with Sam’s Family. They offer English lessons training and decent wages to their employees.
We hiked through the Palaung villages. Their main source of income is chili farming. Side businesses include growing flowers and avocado.
Stay
Winner Hotel - Pyi Taung Su Road, Kalaw - Tel: 95 81 50025 / 50279 - Mail: winnerhotel.kalaw@gmail.com
Trek
Sam’s family trekking service -Aung Cha Tha, Kalaw, Myanmar 3 days 2 nights trek.
Cost
Lunch + Dinner: 3,200 kyats
Kalaw hotel single room 1 night: 25 USD
3 days 2 nights trek to Inle (including luggage transfer to Inle hotel, food, accommodation, guide service, boat ride to Nyaung Shwe): 40 USD
Inle lake
Book a full-day boat trip for 45,000 kyats per boat. You can share the fees with up to 6 people.
Nam Pan Market: This bustling local market is fascinating to watch in the morning.
Lotus silk weaving: Very surprising technique to collect lotus fiber by cutting the stems.
In Dein pagoda: It’s actually the stunning boat ride to the In Dein pagoda that makes the trip worthy.
Floating Gardens. An ingenious technique to farm using bamboo poles. Floating tomatoes, squash, cauliflower, fruits… my dream!
Tip:
Jump on the boat early, around 5 AM, to see the morning mist and leg-rowing fishermen. You could feed the seagulls from the boat by throwing bread in the air. The birds will then stay above your head!
Stay
Richland Motel - No 13, Lanmadaw Main Road, Myo Lae Quarter - Nyaung Shwe, (Inle) Shan State - Mail: richlandinle@gmail.com (+9581 209249, +959 5148918)
Cost
Nyaung Shwe hotel: 15,000 kyats x 2
Shared Boat ride: 4,000 kyats (full day)
Food : 5,000 kyats
Night bus Inle to Yangon: 14,000 kyats